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008			241223b |||||||| |||| 00| 0 eng d
040			_aMAIN
041			_aEng
100			_aRose,Clare. _963471
245			_aWhat Was Uniform about the Fin-de- _bSiècle Sailor Suit?/ _cClare Rose
260			_aOxford: _bOxford University Press, _c 2011,
300			_a 24, Issue 2, May 2011, (105–1
520			_aThe sailor suits widely worn by children in late-nineteenth-century Britain have been interpreted at the time, and since, as expressions of an Imperial ethos. Yet, a closer examination of the ways that these garments were produced by mass manufacturers, mediated by advertisers and fashion advisors and consumed by families makes us question this characterization. Manufacturers interpreted sailor suits not as unchanging uniforms but as fashion items responding to seasonal changes. Consumers used them to assert social identities and social distinctions, selecting from the multiple variants available. Cultural commentators described sailor suits as emulating Royal practice—but also as ‘common’ and to be avoided. A close analysis of large samples of images and texts from the period 1870–1900 reveals how these different meanings overlapped, making the fin-de-siècle sailor suit a garment that undermines many of our assumptions
650			_aChildhood _y19th Century _zEurope _963472
650			_aSailor Suit _963473
650			_aConsumption
650			_aMasculinity _937397
773	0		_09229 _913522 _dOxford: Oxford University Press, 2011. _oJ000329 _tJournal of Design History _x0952-4649
856			_u https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epr006
942			_cART
999			_c15378 _d15378